Blog #2: The Art of Fashion
The Roots of Fashion
Fashion has been around for centuries, dating back to the early Egyptian and Roman empires. Fashion at the time was used as a status symbol that separated the rich from the poor. Fashion played this role as an instrument of separation between classes throughout history.
From 50 to 30 B.C, ancient Egypt and Roman garments were made of sheer loose materials, usually draped as it required no sewing. These garments were designed merely for comfort. By the 14th century, clothes became more intricate with gowns, trousers, jackets, and heavy ornate fabric. The style during this century was loose in fit and long, with draped sleeves and heavy materials such as velvet, a stark contrast to the 16th century. During the 16th century, silhouettes went from loose and draped to tight-fitting bodices and big skirts layered with petticoats. This emphasized big busts and slim waists, which popularized tight-laced corsets. This was intended to achieve the most perceived ideal figure and assert a higher ranking among women. Still, at this time, clothes were merely a status symbol where the quality of cloth and extremity of silhouette was a status of wealth.
This divide was also experienced in the Philippines. During the 1830s in the Spanish colonial period, the influx of foreigners arriving in manila and other provincial ports led to the intermixing of races in the Philippines. This revolutionized fashion in the Philippines in terms of style, a mix of European and native fashion. Even with the adaptation of western clothing, there was still a distinction in class. Social class was the determination of respectability at the time. There were the Elites and the Common Class. Elites were the Europeans, Chinese, and Mestizos. Then there was the Common class. Within the Common class were the Respectable Class. In the Philippines, clothes were not directly linked to wealth but class. Wealth, upper-class position, and beautiful clothing were not necessarily related. The same is true of poor wealth and common class position, which may not always translate into drab attire and appearance. In a 1720 letter, Father Gaspar de San Agustin noted that, even if they had nothing to eat, men, in particular, "must not for that reason fail to have a shirt and a cap and to dress in style. Even the poorest knew the value of appearance (Coo, 2014). As determined, class and respectability were based on fashion and style.
For years, people were not concerned with their clothing design as they simply used clothes to identify wealth or class, not until 1826. fashion began to take a different turn, and wearing clothes went beyond being identified. Most people think Charles Fredrick was the world's first fashion designer. He established the custom of fashion houses by advising his customers on the appropriate clothing (440Industries, 2022). Clothing went from dictation of society to personal preference and self-expression.
Fashion became an art and was focused on the designs of each garment. Fashion designers began filling fashion design houses, and Paris eventually became the world's Fashion capital. Trends would start in Paris and would influence the world. Fashion evolved from different silhouettes to practical dresses.
The Elements of Fashion
a.) Shape and Silhouette. Shapes in fashion form the silhouette, which is the garment's outline. Overall, shape and silhouette are the garment's structure that complements, accentuates, or hides parts of the body to create the visual facets of the clothing. Silhouettes are often indicators of the style of the piece as it differs from different fashion eras.
b.) Lines. Lines are the breaks or additions to the shape and silhouette of a garment. Lines create illusion and emphasis as it guides a viewer's eyes to some aspects of the piece.
c.) Texture. Texture refers to the material and drape of the fabric used for a particular piece. Texture appeals to both the eyes and the sense of touch. It may also determine the overall sense of a garment. For instance, a clothing piece may have the same silhouette and design, but the material of the fabric of one is silk while the other is linen. One can be perceived as a more formal piece than the other.
d.) Color. Color gives the most visual impact as it stimulates a clothing piece's feel. Color influences and dictates the mood of an outfit.
e.) Balance. In fashion, there is a formal and informal Balance. Formal Balance is the equal distribution of weight and design within the outfit, while informal Balance is the asymmetrical placement of weight and emphasis of the outfit.
Recent Developments
Fashion has now become a widespread form of self-expression accessible to all. Fashion is a part of popular culture that reflects the social, economic, political, and cultural changes throughout the years. For years fashion was and is political. Even in medieval times, sumptuary regulations prohibited those of the lower class from clothing above their station. Today, clothing serves more as a reflection of who we are as people—of our personalities and what we stand for. Instances where fashion was used as political statements, were with Amelia Jenks Bloomer. Bloomer started a fashion revolution and dress reform as she pushed women to adapt to a new style of garments, from health hazardous and restrictive corsets to pantaloons, now known as bloomers. This style of garments disturbed the conservatives and represented the women's rights movements.
Aside from the reflection fashion has on pop culture, fashion is a reflection of oneself. In addition to popular fashion trends, fashion subcultures have developed through the years. Fashion subcultures are popular trends in clothing developed through cultural influences such as music, art, or eras. Since style is more individualized, they are distinct from each other. Fashion trends that individuals with similar interests gravitate toward give rise to subcultures. Different kinds of fashion subcultures might be influenced by aesthetics, political beliefs, or geographic patterns. Subcultures are diverse enough to be considered a subdivision of fashion due to their particular qualities(Rajpal et al., 2022). Subcultures and trends will pop up from anywhere. There will be newer and newer styles and trends to follow. For generations, fashion trends have changed and will continue to change till the end of time, but at the end of the day, fashion is about expressing oneself; therefore, wear what you want and express your individuality.
Recent Developments
Fashion has now become a widespread form of self-expression accessible to all. Fashion is a part of popular culture that reflects the social, economic, political, and cultural changes throughout the years. For years fashion was and is political. Even in medieval times, sumptuary regulations prohibited those of the lower class from clothing above their station. Today, clothing serves more as a reflection of who we are as people—of our personalities and what we stand for. Instances where fashion was used as political statements, were with Amelia Jenks Bloomer. Bloomer started a fashion revolution and dress reform as she pushed women to adapt to a new style of garments, from health hazardous and restrictive corsets to pantaloons, now known as bloomers. This style of garments disturbed the conservatives and represented the women's rights movements.
References
440 Industries. (2022, May 30). History of fashion design – the evolution. 440 Industries – Training For Creative Rockstars. Retrieved July 20, 2022, from https://440industries.com/history-of-fashion-design-the-evolution/
Coo, S. M. R. (2014). Clothing And The Colonial Culture Of Appearances In Nineteenth Century Spanish Philippines (1820-1896) (dissertation). Ecole doctorale « Lettres, Sciences Humaines et Sociales ».
Gbetodeme, S., Amankwa, J., & Dzegblor, N. (2016). Basic Design, a Needed Foundation for Designing a Successful Garment: A Case Study of Dressmakers in the Ho Municipality, Volta Region, Gh. Journal of Education and Practice, 7(3).
Rajpal, K., Krishita RajpalKrishita Rajpal is a Fashion Journalist Intern at ShilpaAhuja.com. She is currently pursuing her bachelor’s in Business Administration at Presidency University, Chenoa, & Gajbhe, H. (2022, March 12). Types of fashion subcultures: A complete guide to different influences. Shilpa Ahuja. Retrieved July 20, 2022, from https://shilpaahuja.com/types-of-fashion-subcultures/#:~:text=Fashion%20subcultures%20are%20popular%20ways,people%20with%20similar%20interests%20prefer.
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